Experiences with Fungal disease
Aconitum: Rust on roses: I read the book “Homoeopathy for Farm and Garden” by V.D. Kaviraj with great interest and enthusiasm. I'm just a hobby gardener but I had great success treating rust on roses using Aconitum. I've never had such beautiful roses!!
Aconitum – Orchid successfully revived
Belladonna 6D: Downy mildew on grapevines
Report from an organic agriculture consultant based in New Zealand:
Belladonna 30C: Rust on roses
Belladonna 30C: Rust on peppermint plant
The new growth was a little slow in coming but is up to now completely healthy and I can enjoy fresh tea again.
30C: Roses suffering from rust for about 10 years:
Belladonna C 30 - Sunburn in Stone Fruit
Carbo vegetabilisCarbo vegetabilis: young pear tree: treatment of pear trellis rust
A young pear tree was affected by pear trellis rust in the first year after planting. This fungus affects the branches of various species of juniper, with the spores being transmitted on the wind to the leaves of pear trees. Ms B.'s neighbour had such a juniper in her garden. Initially the leaves showed light orange-red spots at the tips of the leaves, which then gradually enlarged, spreading over the leaves of the tree. Later long growths could be seen on the undersides of the leaves. The rust attacks recurred in the following years. The tree had scarcely any leaves, the fruit did not grow well, falling off early, and Ms B. was about to give up and cut the tree down.
In the spring of 2012 she watered her pear tree following the recommendations of Christiane Maute (Homeopathy for Plants) twice with 8 pellets of Carbo vegetabilis 30 C in 30 litres of water, at an interval of one week. After a short time, the rust on the leaves diminished. The leaves gradually became greener and thicker. The tree seemed to be recovering. A few pears fell off again but in autumn she was able to harvest a good number of pears and she was pleased by how the tree was looking.
Carbo vegetabilis – aphids, whitefly and tomato blight
The tomato plants were watered straight after planting and 6 weeks later with Carbo vegetabilis 30 C (5 pellets in 5 litres of water), as recommended by Christiane Maute. So far there has been no sign of tomato blight, despite the dense planting in a greenhouse. The tomatoes are firmer than ever and have so many fruit that they even need to be supported.
Dominik Albert, Buchen, Germany 2014
Carbo vegetabilisCarbo vegetabilis C 30 - Fruit End Rot in Tomatoes
For my tomatoes affected by fruit end rot, I ordered Carbo vegetabilis 30 C. This is what I found:
Fantastic!!! For eight years I have been lovingly growing tomato plants (old varieties), which grow superbly in expensive tomato compost and form fruits but then began to rot, until I'm forced to throw them in the bin, swearing never to grow tomatoes again. This year too the plants grew strongly and produced fruit, and the first three plants already had rotten tomatoes ... After a girlfriend recommended your products, I immediately ordered the remedy. It arrived but I could only add two (instead of the recommended five) doses to the water because I was then away for ten days. I imagined that I would have to throw the tomatoes in the bin on my return... but nothing of the sort! I arrived home to find not a single brown tomato! I'm really excited. Finally I can enjoy healthy tomatoes – kilos of them.
Many thanks for this great product!
Meta Dantl, Passau, Germany 2014
Carbo vegetabilis: Tomato blight treated with Carbo vegetabilis C 30
Mrs. Suter writes about the homeopathic treatment in her garden:
Simply FANTASTIC, works really well, I'm totally enthusiastic and sometimes speechless too ...
What fascinated me most was the treatment of a tomato plant that was almost about to die. Tomato blight had spread widely in the lower part of the plant, and the little leaves at the top already had small brown spots. At this point the tomatoes had not yet set fruit. I watered the tomatoes, which were growing in a plastic housing with one side open, on four consecutive days with Carbo veg. 30 C, (5 pellets in 1 litre of water, dissolved in a watering can).
The plant then developed numerous fresh green leaves, and the leaves affected by blight fell off. It recovered completely, even becoming the best tomato plant in our garden. This experience was a “revelation” for me and it also convinced my husband to continue with homeopathy.
Another tomato plant had something like water-filled brown spots on the underside of the fruits, and these spread from below to cover the tomatoes as they matured (picture 1). This plant was treated starting on August 4, 2013 for four consecutive days with Carbo veg. 30 C. For a long time it looked as if there was no improvement. But now, three weeks after applying the remedy, it has become clear that – although a few tomatoes still have brown spots below – they appear to have dried up and are no longer spreading to cover the entire tomato (picture 2). The younger tomatoes are completely healthy (picture 3)!
Mrs. Suter, St.Marien, Switzerland 2013
This combination preparation, developed by an organic agricultural consultant from New Zealand, has proved useful in tests for the treatment of various fungal diseases such as false and true mildew, as well as Botrytis.
Fcomp fruit growing (after flowering)
Fungi-No fruit growing: An organic agricultural consultant from New Zealand developed this preparation after many years of tests on his orchards. The “Fuji” variety of apple, which is normally very susceptible to scabs, remained largely scab-free thanks to treatment with this product. He sprayed three times before flowering and three times after flowering – mainly after periods of susceptibility to infection (sultry, rainy conditions) – with 50 ml of the preparation in 100 L of water.
» Fcomp fruit growing (after flowering) order
Fcomp fruit growing (pre flowering)
See Fcomp fruit growing (after flowering)
» Fcomp fruit growing (pre flowering) order
Fcomp viticulture (after flowering)
Fungi-No was developed by an organic agricultural consultant from New Zealand after many years of tests in viticulture.
» Fcomp viticulture (after flowering) order
Fcomp viticulture (pre flowering)
see Fcomp Viticulture (after flowering)
» Fcomp viticulture (pre flowering) order
Hepa sulfuris 30C: For fungal attack, I have used Hepa sulfuris 30C (3 pellets /10 liters water) for several years with very good results. I need to apply it only once or twice.
Rhus toxRhus tox 30 C:
A cherry tree had been afflicted for 4 years with shot hole disease, which is a fungal disease resulting in red-brown spots on the leaves – the spots then break open, leaving holes, causing the leaves to prematurely turn yellow and fall off.
In spring, when budding started, the tree was watered every 2 weeks with Rhus tox 30 C (2 watering cans, 8 pellets in 30 liters of water), followed by 2 applications of Silicea 200 C. This year the leaves remained healthy and completely free of the fungal disease. (Barchfeld,Thuringia)
SulphurSulphur 30 C: Powdery mildew on roses
Rose leaves showed a coating of white mildew. It was sprayed 2x, once each week, with Sulphur 30 C.
The fungus stopped spreading and the new leaves were healthy.
Thuja 200C: Leaf curl in peaches
Curly leaf disease on a peach tree
I watered a peach tree badly affected by curly leaf disease for 4/5 weeks with Thuja 6D. About every three to four days, I made a solution of one capful (approximately 1 ml) diluted in 1 litre of water, and applied it directly and carefully round the trunk of the tree. I also gradually removed the affected leaves.
Thuja: Leaf curl on a peach tree
Thuja: pear trellis rust and monilia on a pear tree